So you saw you the latest Baz Luhrmann joint, read our post, and now all you can think of is decking out your closet with peak lapel suits like Jay Gatsby. But should you? What exactly is the difference between notch, peak and shawl lapels? What separates the three besides the obvious visual differences of one being notched, the other pointed and the other rounded? Does your build matter? Is it OK to wear a notch lapels at a traditionally “black tie” event? Have we peaked your interest yet? Shawl we get started then (sorry, we couldn’t resist)? Leave it to the guys who named their company after it to give you a little primer on the basics of the lapel.

Defining the Elements of a Lapel: 

First, let’s briefly touch on the major elements of a suit lapel:

 (*All of our custom suits can be customized with wider lapels upon special request.)

When it comes to choosing your lapel, there are a few factors to consider:

1. Setting / Occasion – Got an invite to a black tie gala with the partners of your firm? Or is it another average day wrestling with Excel in the cube? The setting and occasion will play a large part in determining the type of suit you wear and the type of the lapel that should grace it.
2. Type of Suit – Not all lapels work for all suits. For example, shawl lapels will go best with tuxedos and DB suits should almost always have a peak lapel.
3. Body Type – So you’ve got a Barney Stinson frame with a penchant for Harvey Specter-esque ultra-wide peak lapels? You may want to rethink that combo. Considering your body is an important factor in choosing the right lapel for you. For example, slimmer lapels will look more proportional to the physique of a slimmer gent and hence, be more flattering. It’s a game of proportions, so make sure your suit lapels are playing along.

The Three Types of Lapels Every Gent Should Know: 

Notch Lapel (also called the “stepped lapel”) – The “notch” is the opening where the bottom of the collar meets the top of the lapel, usually at a 75 – 90 degree angle.  The notch lapel is the most common lapel for a reason – it’s the most versatile of the bunch. It is most often found in single-breasted suit jackets, blazers and sports coats.  If you only own one suit, this is the lapel type to go with.

Slim Notch – A thinner version (smaller lapel width) of the normal notch. (Black Lapel’s Slim Notch lapels are 2.75 inches, roughly 0.25 to 0.5 inches thinner than our normal lapel.) Works best with a slim suit and flatters a slimmer body type.

Setting /Occasion (where to wear it): Every-day business suit, interview suit, can’t-go-wrong wardrobe staple, chick-magnet ensemble for the bar.

Body Type (who should wear it): All body types. And while not a black-and-white rule, slim notch lapels will tend to flatter and maintain the proportions of a slimmer frame. Joseph Gordon-Levitt, Aziz Ansari and Neil Patrick Harris types, rejoice.

Type of Suit (what to wear it on): Ideal for single-breasted suits, blazers and sports coats. Not recommended for double-breasted suits and tuxedos.

Peak Lapel (also called “pointed lapel”) – Peak lapels are traditionally the most formal of the lapels and were originally common in formal wear garments such as tailcoats and morning coats. Peak lapels will tend to look a little more fashion-forward (especially if you decide to go the Lapo Elkann route). In actuality, peak lapels have been around for over 100 years. It is also the most expensive lapel to manufacture (requires the most amount of skill).

Slim Peak – A slimmer version of the peak lapel. (Black Lapel’s Slim Notch lapels are 2.75 inches, roughly 0.5 inches thinner than our normal lapel, which are approximately 3.25 inches wide.) Like the slim notch, works best with a slim suit and flatters a slimmer body type.

Setting /Occasion (where to wear it): Weddings, formal dinners, black tie events or simply whenever you want to dress up a bit while turning some heads. And the office? Yes, peak lapels are good to go here.

Body Type (who should wear it): For those looking for some added height, the points of a peak lapel can create an elongating effect by moving the eyes upwards towards the shoulders. The elongating effect also has a slimming effect, so larger gents might want to give this a try as well.

Type of Suit (what to wear it on): Double-breasted suit will almost always have peak lapels. They are also appropriate on single-breasted suits and you’ll often see these lapels on pinstriped fabrics.

Shawl Lapel – Characterized by a rounded edge, the shawl lapel is most common on dinner jackets / tuxedos (for those nights you plan on taking down a couple of Oscars or upstaging the groomsmen at a friend’s wedding). While you will rarely see a shawl collar on anything other than a tuxedo (or smoking jacket), many style enthusiasts will argue that the shawl lapel can be more of an informal variation of evening wear.

Setting / Occasion (where to wear it): Black tie events, red carpet galas and weddings.

Body Type (who should wear it): Most body types. Not recommended if you have an extremely round face or body as the rounded lapel will accentuate those features by mimicking it. Instead, opt for a peak or notch lapel with more jagged lines instead.

Type of Suit (what to wear it on): Ideal for tuxedos.

So whether you need to dapper up at your own wedding, as the best man at your friend’s wedding or you’re simply trying to smarten up on how to achieve the best look for yourself, now you have the knowledge and confidence to dress a notch above the competition.

Got a question to ask us on lapels? Leave a comment below! 

A: As you can see from the picture above, we’re not all too serious about matching your socks to either your pants or your shoes. If we really had to choose, we’d say match your socks to your pants, to avoid what Glenn O’Brien calls the “Bootee Effect” (looking like you’re wearing bootees by matching the color of your socks too closely to your shoes). Or put another way, you’d much rather have your legs look long rather than your shoes look tall.

But if you asked us for the real answer, we say, to hell with matching your socks with either. Instead, use your socks as a chance to flash some color.  Match it to your shirt, tie, pocket square, boutonniere and maintain the tone of the outfit–we interpret “tone” rather liberally. Pick up a pair of colorful, unconventional socks from a company like Happy Socks or Sock it To me and infuse a healthy dose of lighthearted personality to an otherwise serious outfit.

Just don’t take this concept over the top by pairing your white gym socks with your suited getup. Yes, it’s unconventional. Yes, it doesn’t match your loafers or your suit pants. And yes, it will look like a day past laundry day.

Got a question to ask the BL Stylist? Leave a comment below!

While you’re reading this post, we suggest you open up Spotify and listen to the newly-released soundtrack to The Great Gatsby (2013). If you’re not already, it will get you pumped about the film’s release on May 10th. We’re definitely excited. And not just because of the killer threads all of the Gatsby boys will be rocking. If the previews and director Baz Luhrmann’s previous work is any indication, the movie promises to be quite the visual feast. Plus, we get Leo DiCaprio as Jay Gatsby. In case you’re still holding Titanic against him and haven’t seen The Departed or Inception, Mr. DiCaprio can put on a show.

In the novel the movie is based on, F. Scott Fitzgerald describes Jay Gatsby as a total clotheshorse. In one scene, Gatsby shows two other characters his collection of shirts, which he keeps “piled like bricks in stacks a dozen high.” He has “shirts of sheer linen and thick silk and fine flannel…shirts with stripes and scrolls and plaids in coral and apple-green and lavender and faint orange, and monograms of Indian blue.” And why shouldn’t he have a roomful of shirts? The man’s rich – Tony Stark rich. So how can you, the modern man with Gatsbian ambitions, get that swinging Gatsby look? It’s easy, and it doesn’t require a trust fund or bootlegging. We’ll explore four of the looks that Gatsby (as played by DiCaprio), Tom Buchanan (as played by Joel Edgerton) and Nick Carraway (as played by Spiderman, er…Tobey Maguire) will be sporting in the upcoming flick.

Look #1: Swanky Dinner Suit

Gatsby is the ultimate dandy. The guy’s closet is bigger than most New York City apartments. As such, costume designer Catherine Martin instilled Gatsby’s tuxedo with all kinds of non-traditional details that only a black tie connoisseur would notice. For starters, a classically styled tuxedo has peak lapels, a single button, piped pockets, and no vents. The vest, if one is worn, is cut low, with no more than four buttons, to expose as much shirt front as possible. Gatsby’s tux on the other hand, has three buttons, flapped pockets, side vents, and gauntlet cuffs. His vest is cut high, with five buttons. The gauntlet cuffs are a tasteful touch; they’re not traditional for a tuxedo, which makes them very conspicuous, just like Gatsby himself. Here’s how to recreate the look:

Look #2: Louche Long Island Linen

Here, Gatsby demonstrates that recovering from an all-night party is no excuse to dress down or slouch. This casual summer suit in ivory linen from Brooks Brothers’s Gatsby collection comes straight from the movie. A linen suit with peak lapels can be dressed up, for a summer wedding, or down, for a casual day in the park. Here, Gatsby wears it with an odd vest (that is, a vest in a non-matching fabric) and spectator (two tone) shoes, both of which add a casual touch. The yellow tie is a perfect summer accessory that really shines (pun sort of intended).

1. The Great Gatsby Collection Ivory Linen Jacket & Pants by Brooks Brothers
2. Solid Light Blue Shirt by Black Lapel
3. Ludlow Vest in Wide Herringbone Italian Linen by J. Crew
4. Concentric Hammer Cufflinks by Black Lapel
5. Butter Pastel Linin Plaid Tie, Dark Chocolate Pocket Square, and Collar Bar by The Tie Bar.
6. Broadstreet Spectators by Allen Edmonds.

Look #3: Prohibition Power Suit

Tom Buchanan is as close as the novel comes to having an antagonist. He’s everything Gatsby wants to be but isn’t. Tom’s a true Blue Blood, coming from an old money East Coast family. He attended Yale, where he was a member of the Skull & Bones Society. You might have heard of them. The Society’s membership roster reads like a who’s who of power players in American politics and business: Presidents William Howard Taft, George H.W. Bush, and George W. Bush, Secretary of State John Kerry, publishing tycoon Henry Luce, and Harold Stanley, co-founder of Morgan Stanley. The list goes on. The bottom line is that Tom Buchanan possess money and power in abundance and he dresses the part. Double-breasted three-piece suits in navy and gray and french-cuffed shirts with gold cufflinks. Getting into Yale is hard. Being asked to join the Skull and Bones Society is even harder. But dressing like Tom is easy. Here’s how to get the look:

She’s the person responsible for bringing you into this world. She raised you to become the custom suit-wearing gent that you are today. There’s one day a year dedicated to celebrating this fact…and on this one day, you best be showing ma dukes some love.

So lets begin with a little test to see where you’re at: +50 points if you know when Mother’s Day is. +100 points if you called your mother in the last two weeks. +200 points if you already have something special planned for Mother’s Day. If you scored more than 200 points, than feel free to stop reading now. If you scored less than 200 points, then read on. If you scored less than 50, it’s not unlikely that you need to see a therapist.

Fact is, if you’re anything like us, you probably could spend a little less time on your own grind and show mama a little more love. After all, your happiness and success may depend on it. Findings from the 75-year old Grant study on happiness concluded that the strength of one’s relationship with their mother had a positive correlation with life satisfaction, work effectiveness, mental health and even income. All the more reason to do more than the typical “love ya mom” call and Hallmark card that most men fall back on every year.

So before we get into our gift guide, let’s touch on some basics to elevate any gift from dust collector to a certified tearjerker.

1. Keep her latest interests in mind - If your mother has difficulty differentiating an iPod from a Walkman, you probably should skip the latest from Gizmodo lest it end up as a paper weight come summer. Don’t know what she’s into these days? Give el padre a call to get tabs on her latest obsessions and projects. El padre don’t know? Call her best friend.

2. Add a personal twist - The key to a memorable gift has everything to do with the thoughtfulness factor. She wants to know that you’re thinking about her on Mother’s Day, and not just looking at another crock pot. Even if you do go with the cookware, give it that personal touch. For example, include a handwritten letter with a throwback story about how you still miss her home-cooked meals to this day. And then, clear space in your fridge for all the food she’ll be sending via express airmail.

With those in mind, here are a gift ideas to make her happy this Mother’s Day while feeding your soul. Cue the music…

(Slideshow takes time to load)

A: Not all things in menswear are clean-cut, and the difference between a suit jacket and a blazer is a prime example of this. Traditionally, a blazer meant a jacket of a solid color (usually navy or black) with gold or silver metal buttons, patch pockets and a softer construction. Think nautical, as the blazer really took off in the 19th century when the british royal navy changed their uniforms to something that closely resembled the modern-day blazer. A suit jacket, on the other hand, has always meant the jacket of a suit with matching pants. Easy, right?

Not so much…These days things the line has become a little more hazy, especially in the States. In fact, to put it simply–there really is no difference these days between a suit jacket and a blazer except that one comes with matching pants and the other doesn’t. This answer might be a bit underwhelming to some, but at least you can now provide a proper retort to your snappy coworker when he comments on your “blazer” merely being a suit jacket. This also means you can now get a little more casual mileage out of a leaner wardrobe by dressing down your suit jackets as a blazer. Just don’t try pulling off those pinstripes suit jackets as blazers–as we’ve advised before, some suit jackets are meant to be worn as suit jackets, with matching pants!

Got further questions? Leave a comment below! 

We’ve all experienced it before: walking down the street and catching the brief intoxicating scent of a beautiful woman passing by. The scent reminds you of your ex. Or perhaps of a missed connection. Of a chance encounter on a cobble stone street. And if you really dwell on it, it’ll even take you back to your family living room and your mother’s latest issue of Cosmo. What just happened?

A fragrance is a powerful agent of expression. It can be sharp and it can be mellow. It can tease and it can coax. And most importantly, it can work both ways. Our scents can create an equally compelling sense of attraction with the fairer sex.  One that might grab the attention and affections of that gorgeous brunette eyeing your custom-suited self at the bar.

Jean-Baptiste Grenouille in “Perfume: The Story of a Murder” taking the whole “bodily scent” concept a little too far.

Olfactory Alchemy: Cologne + Your Distinct Body Chemistry = A Completely Unique Scent 

If you’re like most gents out there, you probably didn’t put much thought into acquiring your collection of Polo, Coolwater, or Acqua Di Gio. We’re not knocking on any of these classics—they have a certain amount of universal appeal. And lucky for men, no one cologne will ever smell the same on two different people, if worn correctly. Wearing a cologne is a bit of an experiment in chemistry—the oils, extracts, alcohol and water of a fragrance mix with the natural oils of your skin. Together with some body heat-induced evaporation, these chemicals create a dynamic scent that will not only smell differently on different men, but offer a a progressively different experience throughout the day.

With that said, a little effort (10-15 minutes to read this article) in learning to be a bit more discerning in your search will allow you to not increase the odds of finding that one scent that will make her lose sleep figuratively and, let’s hope, literally. Finding your own unique scent will keep you far away from her memories of her lame ex—you know, the one she associates with the entire gamut of urbandictionary.com expletives.

The Origin of “Cologne” – Napoleon’s Favorite Fragrance

The term “Eau de Cologne” (“Water of Cologne”), or “cologne” for short, came from the name of the fragrance created by Italian Perfumer Jean Marie Farina in Cologne, Germany. (Good thing no one decided to launch a fragrance called “Water of New York City”—you’ll find us running the other direction.) While not the most original of names it quickly became a favorite amongst aristocrats and an inspiration for centuries to come.

For the purposes of this guide, it’s sufficient to know that “Eau de Cologne” has evolved into the first of four different classifications of strength and lasting power of a fragrance. Knowing the difference between the different lasting strengths will allow you to know when you need a little reapplication when things heat up with that pretty lady. So let’s do a quick rundown: 

• Eau de Cologne (3-7% of aromatic compounds) – Extremely light with a duration of about 2 hours. (The more aromatic compounds the stronger the fragrance and the longer it takes to evaporate.)
• Eau de Toilette (7-12% of aromatic compounds) – Eau de Toilette is stronger than Eau de Cologne but still evaporates rather quickly. Lasts about 2 – 4hrs.  It is the most common type of fragrance on the market.
• Eau de Perfume (Parfum) (10-20% of aromatic compounds) – Much more intense than the aforementioned products, Eau de Perfume is usually sold in small bottles and lasts 3-5hrs.
• Perfume (Parfum) (>20% of aromatic compounds) – The strongest and longest lasting type of fragrance. Only a tiny amount is needed and can last up to 6hrs.

The “Notes”: The Dynamic Scent of a Cologne

Now that you have a better idea of the longevity of a fragrance, it’s important to briefly touch upon the three stages of cologne’s progression during the evaporation process.

1. The Top “Head” Notes –Think of the top notes as the first impression and honeymoon. It is the hello, the intoxicating smile, and the fleeting moments of infatuation from that first encounter. The top notes come on the strongest and leave the quickest. It is usually not what defines the scent, but it sure helps sell it.
2. The Middle Notes – The middle notes are what comes after the honeymoon stage. You’re entering familiar territory but discovery is still in the air. The middle notes begin to make up the main and lasting character of the fragrance.
3. The Base Notes –Finally the base notes make up the unwavering core of the cologne. It defines, it permeates and it endures. Base notes bring depth and solidity to a fragrance and are often described as “rich” or “deep”. Together with the middle notes, it makes up the main theme of the cologne.

How to Determine the Right Type of Cologne for You

He bottles his own cologne…out of his sweat.

Very much like getting a custom suit, discovering the right cologne for you has a lot with to do with knowing yourself. Are you a t-shirt and jeans kind of bro? Or are you The Most Interesting Man In The World? A fresh citrusy scent will work better with the former and a leathery spicy scent with the latter. Having an idea for the way you’ll dress and knowing who you are will allow you to have a better idea of whether you want to smell like lemon or leather. And that knowledge will help you avoid falling prey to the latest craze scent that’s being peddled.

Men’s colognes can be categorized into three general categories: These are by no means exhaustive, nor is this list meant to limit your cologne selection. Use this list as a starting point for discovering what works best for you. 

1. Citrus – Think fruits–specifically, oranges and lemons. This is that just-got-out-of-the-shower scent.  

Pairs well with: T-shirt and jeans guy / easy-going and sporty look.

Fragrance Examples (from top to bottom): Armani Acqua di Gio, Creed Imperial Millesime, Hermes Eau D’orange Verte

2. Green – Green fragrances are sweeter and herb-like. Think mint, herbs, and grassy smells, often reminiscent of crushed fresh plants.

Pairs well with: The clean and put-together young professional dressed in a well-fitting button-down shirt and crisp designer denim or chino / fresh, casual and clean look. 

Fragrance Examples: Bvlgari Pour Homme, Givenchy Greenergy, Chanel Allure Men

3. Spicy – Based on exotic spices, spicy colognes will often have strong, masculine, seasoned leathery scents.

Pairs well with: The custom suit wearing gent who likes to make his presence known in the boardroom / dark, tailored, and put-together look.

Fragrance Examples: Old Spice Classic, John Varvatos for Men, Tom Ford Amber Absolute

How to Properly Apply Cologne

Of course, you can fall into multiple categories.  Perhaps you’re spicy by day, green at night and all citrus all weekend long.  But now that you have a general idea of what type of scent you want to spray on, it’ll help to brush up on the proper techniques of wearing cologne.

1. Apply to the heat spots – A large part of the final scent of a fragrance comes from the reaction that it has with the heat on the skin as the cologne evaporates. A few of the body’s heat zones include the wrists, inner elbows, chest, and neck. Apply onto dry skin (and not your clothes) in these heat zones to maximize the release of the cologne’s scent.
2. Keep it light – Spritz once or twice 2-6 inches from the heat zones (wrists, neck, chest). For non-spray bottles, use one finger to stopper the opening and tip the bottle gently (do not splash). We like to spray a couple light sprays on one wrists, press both wrists together (don’t rub as that friction will cause it to heat up and the scent to evaporate too quickly), and finally, press against the sides of your neck.
3. Don’t overload scents – It’s important not to give your cologne competition from other scented products—scented body washes, shave balms, shaving creams, lotions, deodorants, etc.—as an overload of scents will simply clash.

Shopping for your Signature Scent 

Step 1: Card / swatch test – Keeping the category of cologne you want in mind (spicy, citrus, green), spray on the cards provided at the store to get a sense of the ones you like the most. Refresh scent palette with coffee beans (usually provided).

Step 2: Skin test - Once you’ve narrowed your list down to a few, apply one to each wrist, and inner elbow. Refresh scent palette with coffee beans (usually provided).

Step 3: Wait – Smell each cologne immediately then wait and smell it at different intervals (1 minute, 5 minutes, 15 minutes) as you let it breathe to get a true sense of the relationship. A fragrance is a bit like red wine, you need to let it breathe. In 15 minutes you’ll start entering those middle notes and get a better sense of what the cologne will smell like for the rest of the day.

There you have it, now that you’re armed with a little more wisdom for the senses, you can go out to add a little sensory depth to that visual treat you’re already rocking with your Black Lapel custom suit.

Looking for a more thorough discussion of fragrances? Basenotes.com is a great place to start where fragrance enthusiasts discuss everything from the classics to the obscure and up-and-coming.

What are your go-to scents? Share your recommendations in the comments below! 

Spring is in full swing. And unless your home address contains the word “Winterfell”, this should be your cue from Madre Naturaleza for some full-on color-play. Last week, we showed you how to raise your pattern and color game in the context of shirts and ties. This week, we’ll show you how you can introduce accents of color into your outfits in the form of some more unconventional elements.

So turn up your monitor’s brightness because we’re about to get colorful in here. Let’s dive in, feet first:

1. Accent Color Socks 

Do us a favor and forget the proverbial rules of matching your socks to your slacks for a second.  And before you yell “sacrilege!” and start googling “rule for matching socks to trousers”, let’s set a small caveat: If you’re going for a formal look or dressing up for an interview, you’re probably going to want to stick to the old adage of matching your black socks with a black suit and navy socks with a navy suit. But for the rest of us, this is the season to flash a splash of color on your ankle and take your outfit from CPA-boring to pure iridescent irreverence. Spin that color wheel and match your socks with your tie, pocket square, shirt, or nothing at all.

Where to get it: 

Nice Laundry

Happy Socks 

Sock it To me

2. Accent Color Shoelaces

Looking for a low effort way to get the ladies to look you up and down? Look no further than color shoelaces to keep those eyes moving. Simply remove your old laces and swap them out with a pair of colorful laces to turn a serious pair of dress shoes into a playful punch of personality. Coordinating it with the rest of the outfit’s color scheme is rather simple—match with one color element of your outfit such as the color of a pocket square or just keep the rest of the outfit put-together and muted and let the bright laces talk. If you do decide to match it with another piece in your outfit, keep it a few hues off (e.g. pair purple shoe laces with a lighter lavender color pair of socks) for a sophisticated match.

Where to get it: 

Stolen Riches

Benjos

3. Accent Color Tie Bar 

We’ve covered tie bars before (and specifically, how and where to wear them). However, we never mentioned these little clasped beauties in the context of disrupting the very color paradigms of an outfit. In fact, most men, when they think of a tie bar will probably be seeing silver or gold. However, thanks to companies like thetiebar, you can now turn these bars into little pops of blue, red, and almost every conceivable color to shake up the color scheme of an entire suited look.

Where to get it: 

Thetiebar.com

4. Accent Color Lapel Flower

Yes, we just said flower, and no, there is nothing unmasculine about fastening a flower to your lapel. In fact statesmen, poets, and even soldiers have been fastening boutonnieres to their lapels for centuries. That’s what the functioning buttonhole on your lapel is built for. And don’t worry, we’re not about to tell you to hit up your local florist to pick up fresh carnations for your next suit-and-tie getup for the office. Wearing a real rose on your chest may look a bit out-of-place for your next date (unless of course that date is taking place at a prom…or a wedding… or you’re the patriarch of a crime family). So we’re going to suggest something with a little more sartorial versatility and longevity than an actual flower—crochet lapel flowers. They’re a bit smaller and come in a variety of bright colors making them a perfect candidate for turning an otherwise standard look into one that’s spring-approved.

Where to get it: 

Hook + ALBERT

Kent Wang

The Knottery

The Cordial Churchman

5. Accent Color Stitching 

Of course, we saved the best for last. There’s nothing like an accent of color custom-stitched right onto your custom suit. Sometimes a sliver of color on the boutonniere or functioning buttonholes of your sleeve can be all the accent of color your outfit needs to add that coup de grâce to your look. It also has the added punch of showing the world that your suit is probably one that they can’t find on the racks of some department store, but is in fact, cut, tailored and colored, exclusively just for you. 

Where to get it: 

Black Lapel 

When it comes down to wearing accent colors, it’s more about how you wear that pop of color rather than whether it coordinates seamlessly with your outfit. Don’t do too many of them at a time. Don’t over think it, and above all, smile and have fun with it. In the end, that’s the point isn’t it?

And if you noticed a couple new suits in the mix above, you must be a true Black Lapel fan. Those are indeed a sneak preview of our of our spring collection, coming soon. 

Got questions or ideas on introducing accent colors to your outfits? Leave a comment below! 

A: 

Go ahead and give that suit jacket or blazer a day off and give that vest a little moonlighting as a stand-alone piece. In fact, a vest can be a perfect candidate for achieving that dressy-but-not-too-serious-and-still-looking-better-than-99%-of-the-room look at the next after work social.

Here are a couple of our favorite ways to wear a vest for that casual, weekend warrior look:

1. Give the Suit Jacket a Rest - Leave the jacket at home and wear that vest with a well-fitting button-down shirt and some suit pants. For an even more relaxed look, opt for a more casual button down like an oxford or a chambray. And if you’re knotting up, reach for something a little laid back like a knit or cotton tie, rather than a more formal silk tie. Feel free to keep your shirt collar unbuttoned with a loosened up tie knot to let people know you’ve switched from work mode to play mode.
2. Go Vest + Jeans - If you’re pairing your vest with some jeans, you want to go for a dark wash with no fancy fades, major whiskering, holes or bagginess. Make sure the denim is a slimmer fit, so it’s consistent with your vest. With the right pair of jeans, you can achieve a smart casual look and avoid a jarring juxtaposition between dressy and casual. You never want to look business on top and over-relaxed on the bottom.

As for the vest itself, make sure it fits snug, with the length long enough that the sides reach to your belt line. And remember to leave that last vest button unbuttoned.

So give your vest a chance to shine. It’s a great way to add some versatility to your outfit. Mix and match, get creative and see what you can come up with!

Got any questions or outfit suggestions on wearing a vest casually? Leave a comment below! 

When it comes to putting together a shirt and tie combination, some gents seem to be born with an uncanny ability to just pull sick ensembles of colors, patterns and texture together. Many other men however often fall into one of two camps: 1) the “I will wear the same exact combinations and hope no one notices” camp and 2) the “I will point my fingers at my closet, close my eyes and spin around 5 times to see what the day has in store for me” camp. These poor chaps are intimidated by the mere thought of having to think about their wardrobe, relegating their choices into a safe play of recurring solids or the plausible deniability of random selection.

And while there’s nothing wrong with laying it up and the occasional lucky shot…sometimes, you’ve got to have a better game plan. And you sir, are reading this because you are a student of the game. So in this post, we’re going to provide you with a few basics tips that will help you refine your approach to picking out some winning shirt and tie combinations. Start here and you’ll be a pattern-matching veteran in no time.

Combination #1: Solid-on-Solid 

Before we get to pattern mixing, let’s touch on a classic, low-risk combo: the solid tie and solid shirt combo. For the most part, doing this is nearly fail safe, but there are definitely ways to do it better. Here are two ways to approach solid on solid matching:

1. Use contrasting color combinations. No surprise here – you’ve probably already been doing this. If you’re rocking a foundation shirt like a solid white or a solid light blue or pink, you can pretty much wear any color solid tie you like. It’s a great way to make your outfit pop with a bit more color.
2. Use analogous color combinations. This is a very classy, sleek look that many overlook. Wearing a solid light blue shirt? Try it with a solid dark blue tie. Pink shirt? Go with a red, maroon or purple tie. Just keep it in the fam’ (color wise). While doing this won’t have the same “pop” as a contrasting color combination, it’s a minimalistic pairing that symbolizes a certain level of sartorial sophistication.

Like all aspects of style, gaining an eye for color is simply a matter of trial and error and finding what works for you. Experiment with online color matching tools like color explorer to find hues and analogous colors for your tie or shirt color. And one thing to avoid? Wearing a color combination where the color in your respective shirt and tie combo are too close – e.g., avoid wearing a light solid shirt with a light solid tie. Furthermore, never wear a tie that is the same exact color as your shirt unless you’re casting for some teen vampire movie. Why color with just one crayon when you’ve got 95 other colors in the box?

Combination #2: Solid-on-Pattern / Pattern-on-Solid

Going with a solid-on-pattern requires a bit more thought than just matching solids, but rest assured that you’re still swimming in the kiddy pool. In fact, a solid tie on a patterned shirt is one of the easiest ways to work patterns into your outfit. Here’s the simple but key tip to pulling this off: match the color of your solid tie to the color family of one or more of the colors in your shirt pattern. In the above image, the dark blue in our Solid Royal Blue Tie works perfectly with the subtle blue checks in the Blue Glen Check shirt.

The reverse, a patterned tie on a solid shirt operates on the same principle.  Just match one or more of the colors within the pattern of the tie to the color family of the solid shirt.  Wax on, wax off and go practice these basic combinations!

Combination #3: Pattern-on-Pattern

Now that you’ve snatched the pebble from our hand, on to something with a bit more flare. Mixing a patterned tie with a patterned shirt isn’t rocket science, but some guys seem to stray from it because they’re afraid they’ll end up looking like this. Step one to avoiding a disaster like this? Skip the paisley shirts. We’re going to show you a few examples of patterned ties with patterned shirts that actually work. We’ll also explain how you can apply some simple tips to make successful pattern-on-pattern combos as easy as bacon and eggs.

1. Vary pattern type. Avoid having the same pattern appear in both your shirt and your tie. If your shirt has polka dots, don’t pair it with a dotted tie. Easy.
2. Vary pattern size/scale. In general, the patterns on your tie should be larger and bolder than the patterns on your shirt. For example, a thick, wide-striped tie would work with a thin-striped shirt, but not a thick, wide-striped shirt. A big check would mix well with a smaller check. Having patterns of the same size (and/or type) can result in an overly busy look.
3. Match a detail in the tie with the dominant color of the shirt. Determine the dominant color in your shirt and look for a tie with some of that color within the pattern. For example, white and blue, finely checkered shirt (that looks predominantly blue) would pair nicely with a brown (or any other base color) tie with bold blue stripes.

Here you see an example of using a dotted pattern on the tie and complementing it with a gingham pattern in the shirt. The differing pattern type and size won’t confuse the eyes while the light blue of the gingham shirt ties in nicely with the navy in the tie.

Here you have a boldly striped tie against a fine grid check shirt. The smaller grid pattern of the shirt works well in creating a more muted canvas for the louder stripes of the tie while the fine stripes of lavender in the tie pick up the purple in the shirt.

Lastly, here you see a plaid tie with a striped shirt. The shirt employs lines, but is fine enough to not clash with the busy plaid pattern of the tie. The fact that the lines of the shirt go vertically while the plaid lines move diagonally also add to the visual balance and prevent your coworkers from seeking out optical illusions in your shirts.

Matching in the Context of Suits

For those of you stylish gents who are already thinking about adding a pinstripe, windowpane or other patterned suit to the mix, here’s a simple tip:

Dress one of the three basic elements (suit, shirt and tie) as a plain or solid. While some men can in fact pull off three highly patterned pieces, you’re going to have less headaches adhering to this guideline. Having a neutral canvas as the base such as a solid charcoal suit is a great way to complement a highly patterned shirt and tie and avoid running the risk of looking like you’re trying too hard.

Above all, remember this: learn these as simple guidelines to form your own stylistic expression. If you think you can pull off that pattern-on-pattern-on-pattern combo, then go for it. Play around with different combinations and above all else, don’t be afraid to discover and express something unique! As Oscar Wilde once said, “You have to be yourself, everyone else is taken.” 

Got questions on mixing and matching those stripes, plaids and dots? Leave a comment below! 

We hear it all the time. You want to give those custom Black Lapel threads some more wear but your office is a bit too casual to handle all the sartorial heat. Now of course, you wouldn’t want to be the only one in the office who missed the dress code memo and look like an investment banker at an outdoor rave. What’s a suit lover to do?

In this post, we’ll give you a few very basic ways of wearing that suit jacket casually so you can put it on more often. Here’s your opportunity to get the most utility out of that beautiful piece of custom tailoring. From a casual work environment to a warm spring weekend to just a simple fun night out, you might be fashionably late, but at least you’ll be looking sharp as hell. So, let’s get to it.

Tip #1: Layer Up 

If you’re looking for a way to rock that suit jacket casually with a little more dimensional style, layering it up with a thinner spring-appropriate sweater may be your answer. Throw on that suit jacket with a cardigan, crew or v-neck sweater and pair it with a your navy suit jacket. Throw on some classic desert boots and you’ve got a smart-looking ensemble ready for the office, happy hour with the boys or that first date. Keep everything as fitted as possible and avoid anything chunky or bulky as it will only result in a sloppy look. For a fresh, modern look, always think streamlined.

Tip #2: The Denim Swap

What’s the quickest way to pull together a fresh, casual getup? Shelve your perfectly fitting custom suit pants for some nice denim of similar fit. Pairing denim with a blazer is one of the easiest ways to bring this classic casual staple into your suit-and-tie rotation.  Just be cognizant of the three factors when pulling off the perfect denim-blazer look— the color, wash and fit of the denim. Stick to darker denim with a simple wash (e.g. raw denim) as it will look dressier than one that’s lighter with decorative washes and/or “distress”. Fit matters. Wearing baggy jeans with a slim-fit suit jacket is like putting whipped cream on a perfectly cooked rib eye.

Tip #3: Play with Color 

Spring is here. Get a head start and add some brighter, bolder colors to a style landscape still waking up from the winter. Adding bold colors to your outfit is another way you can turn an otherwise serious suit-and-tie look into a much lighter get-up. Go for the big plays but not a Hail Mary, so don’t wear loud colors from head to toe.  Think one statement piece with a few, small details. For example, try pairing a pair of rust red chinos with your solid navy suit jacket…and add a matching pocket square. Small details like the color of the accent stitching on your boutonniere will round out the outfit.

As you can see, dressing “down” your suit jacket can be just as much fun as suiting up to the nines. So bring your A-game and have fun with it!

Got more ideas for dressing down a suit? Share with us in the comments below!